11 Best Electric Bikes of 2026, Expert-Tested and Reviewed

Class 2 e-bikes can reach up to 20 mph, either while the rider is pedaling (pedal assist) or with electric propulsion alone via a throttle. Class 2 e-bikes are very popular because they’re fun to ride. Here are some of the best ones we’ve tested.

Class 1 e-bikes can reach up to 20 mph with pedal assist. There’s no throttle control on the handlebars to get the bike going; the electric motor works only when the rider is pedaling. Here are some of the best Class 1 e-bikes we’ve tested.

Folding e-bikes feature a frame that folds in half and, on many models, smaller wheels and folding handlebars and pedals. Because features vary so widely in this category, you’re just as likely to find a folding bike with fat tires as you are to find one with smaller parts for better portability. Here are some of the best folding e-bikes we’ve tested.

The best e-bikes go further on a single charge, reach their top speed quickly, respond quickly to rider input, and stop from their top speed in a shorter distance. They should also climb hills quickly with or without assist and maintain speed without assist.

Here’s what and how we test:

• Range is the distance each e-bike travels over the test course, which includes flat, uphill, and downhill sections. We use each e-bike with a fully charged battery until it’s depleted.
• Acceleration is how quickly an e-bike covers a set distance. Our testers travel in a straight line from start to finish, and each e-bike is timed to see how long it takes to complete the course.
• Control response is the motor’s response to the rider’s input. Our testers look for any noticeable delay between starting to pedal (or pressing the throttle) and the motor providing assistance. We record any lag or abruptness in power delivery.
• Braking is the distance required to come to a stop from the bike’s top speed. Our testers accelerate to full speed on a flat road, and we measure the distance between when the testers engage the brakes and where the e-bike stops.
• Hill-climb is the time required to ride from a marked starting point at the bottom of a hill to the endpoint at the top. 
• Unassisted hill climb and unassisted cruising are the gearing available when the battery isn’t providing power. Hill climb is based on the lowest gear setting and its calculated travel distance for one pedal revolution, while cruising is based on the highest gear setting and its calculated travel distance for one pedal revolution at higher speeds. The overall evaluation for each test is based on the bike’s weight, gearing, crank, and wheel measurements.
• Portability is evaluated only for folding e-bikes and includes the folded height, width, depth, and weight of the e-bike. We assess how easily a folded bike can be moved and stored. We also look at the ease of additional features.

Consider these factors before you spring for an electric bike.

• Make sure e-bikes are allowed where you live. City and state laws regulating them vary by locale, so it’s a good idea to check to see whether they’re allowed where you want to ride, whether that’s on public roads, bicycle paths, or trails.
• Consider total costs. E-bikes can be a great convenience, but they’re considerably more expensive to buy and maintain than a traditional bike, and repairs can be pricier, too.
• Find the right type. Some models require the rider to pedal in order for the electric motor to kick in, while others have a throttle lever that operates the motor independently. You should also decide which style of bike—commuter, cruiser, road, mountain, or folding—best suits your needs.
• Choose the correct class. Class 1 bikes require pedal effort to activate the electric motor, which reaches a top speed of 20 mph. Class 2 bikes provide the same level of pedal assistance but can also move without pedaling, using a hand-operated throttle lever, up to the same top speed. Class 3 bikes are pedal-assist, may or may not have a throttle control option, and have an electric power cutoff at 28 mph.