Toyota RAV4

"Air leaks from all windows and sunroof"

"Rattling noise when car drives at 40 mph. On going for years and dealership never able to fix. Still continues"

"Hi after repairs of loose bolt was found very minor"

""Due to alternator failure, 12V battery was damaged too and had to be replaced.""

"The original (16 year old) alternator failed and caused the 12V battery to fail and have to be replaced too."

"Gear issues moving into 4th (around 40 mph) causing engine to get louder/vibrate. mechanic said drive it until it completely goes."

""Started at about 100,000 miles. Does a little better after flushing the transmission (will do it for a third time this summer).""

""The volume and seek knobs aren't responsive from time to time, volume increasing when trying to turn it down, etc.""

"exterior antenna kept vibrating lose, and I kept having to hand tighten it, first with bare hands, then with the help of a small vice-grip. Finally the antenna broke off inside the exterior holder from what I'll presume to be metal fatigue. It broke off INSIDE the holder, so a new antenna could not be simply put in, the part was about $100, but the labor to fix it was $500. Without a radio I can sometimes use a cell-phone and stream, but in mountainous regions like NoCal Sierra and Foothills cell signals are sometimes 30 miles between. I was not going to spend $600 for a radio in an older vehicle, and local radio shop are not radio-mechanics, they are mostly salesmen who can only install full radio systems, not fix an easy problem like a broken antenna mast -- if I were not mid-70's pushing 80 I'd do it myself, but I don't have the eye-hand coordination of a 30-40-50 year old. It's an easy fix, but I won't spend $600 for an antenna when the obvious solution is center drill the remaining radio mast, tap in a measured and cut antenna (full or double wave-length) and simply put in a single dab of silicone to insulate it. Total labor time would be about half an hour, materials would be well less than $2."

"Replace water pump"

"Replaced Alternator"

"The automatic transmission seems to have a preference to move down into 3d gear rather than the 'drive' position; that is when I move from Park or Reverse the 'comfortable' place for the gear shifter is in the 3d gear position, not 'drive'. The 'rough shifting' happens in 'drive' where I'm on a highway after climbing a long hill, the transmission seems to cut out for just a split second - fast enough for my adrenaline to START but not complete it's 'peak' -- faster than I can fully think through what might be going on or what is going to come - then vanishes, so likely well less than a second. Sometimes when in drive it will move from a lower to a higher gear which what, in an older clutch vehicle I'd call the slap of a worn U joint on a drive shaft, just a small feel of that 'slap' that is common with a larger FWD vehicle. 1) auto trans seems to have a 'sweet spot' in 3d gear when shifting from park or reverse into drive -- prior it always felt better in drive. This, of course leads to the vehicle over-revving in 3d with the associated engine and transmission wear and tear. 2) a split second seeming loss of power that catches my attention, but ends before I can really process more than that literally less than a second loss of power, faster than a full-surge adrenaline rush. 3) the seeming jolt or slap when the transmission shifts into a higher gear, never a lower gear. in older vehicles with a single drive-shaft I'd suspect a worn U joint - where I'd look first, after that I might suspect wear in a spider or ring gear in a differential or maybe a bearing linked to the drive-shaft. Since 1969 nearly all my vehicles have been real FWD made out of steel and only a few were auto-transmission -- and I have never worked on an automatic transmission so don't have a clue what it is-- Mechanic says they can't 'road test' a vehicle because of insurance, but might be able to figure it out in the shop. They have the reputation of being exceptionally good mechanics, but they can't seem to find the root cause of the problem. Alas, if they could just go up the same grade I climb every day, I could guarantee with a good 95% probability they would feel that near instant loss of power -- and I have never had time to look at tach so see if the engine responded, but the engine feels smooth."

"OUR SERVICING MAINTENANCE GARAGE SAID THIS SMALL LEAKAGE WAS PREDICATBLE AND NOT SERIOUS"

"Was told engines this old burn extra oil so routinely add quart once monthly but they said there is a leak they have not been able to find yet"

""no symptoms, mechanic likely was lying, but I have no idea""

"Gas port design collects dirt over time."